This Thanksgiving we traded turkey, stuffing, and mashies for wine, cheese, bread and surprisingly good pub food. Bucking tradition to travel this year seemed to be a trend if my friend’s Insta and Facebook feeds are any indication. Lots of people headed north, south, east, and west to celebrate sans pumpkin pie or a doze in front of a football game. We opted to spend a few days in Paris and London before heading down to the middle of France, where we are fortunate enough to have lots of family to spend time with and a house to stay in. Our house doesn’t have wifi or a tv so an extra bonus is that the kids actually have to talk to us! Woohoo! They pretend to be annoyed by it, but it seems to me like they might actually enjoy our company. I know–weird, right? Anyway, here are some highlights and recommendations from our latest family adventure.
First of all, fly Iceland Air. It’s usually the least expensive way to get to anywhere in Europe, they have nice new planes, and the Keflavik airport has cool Icelandic gear for sale, and really, really, really expensive but drinkable coffee. This was probably our 12th trip via Iceland, but all we’ve ever seen is the airport. We need to fix that because Iceland is pretty amazing (you can tell from the flyby and also the 20 infomercial “documentaries” available during your flight). Even the safety video is so beautiful it makes you want to stay.
We flew into Paris and stayed overnight with my husband’s cousin. This is the entryway to her apartment. I took a picture of this because I love the floor, and the doors, and also I just love that it’s in Paris.
But then you have to climb 4 flights of these stairs with all your bags because the elevator is only meant for really skinny French people with no luggage.
This is Martine- our welcome committee and the cutest dog in Paris. I am also convinced she can jump higher than any other dog anywhere. She’s like a circus dog. You can’t tell from this picture because she’s pretending to be calm, so you’ll just have to believe me.
Rue Montorgueil is my favorite street because there are lots of cafes and restaurants to choose from and if you’re wandering in the middle of the road half-dazed from lack of sleep you won’t get hit by a car because it’s pedestrians only.
We decided to combat our jet lag by walking from Les Halles to the Eiffel Tower – not a short stroll even on your best day, but you get to see lots of Paris landmarks, like the Louvre.
My kids were mortified that I took a picture of this statue because he’s naked but he looked about as tired as I was just then, so I felt like he was a kindred spirit.
The Musée du Quai Branly has an exterior living wall so you can experience something cool as you walk by even if you don’t have time to visit the museum itself.
You even get to see art, like this Olmec piece!
Everyone loves Paris in the springtime, but Fall is pretty great too.
The next morning we headed to the Garre Nord pretty early so we could catch our train to London. Yes, that is a bear with wings. The French are interesting.
We dumped our bags and headed out to explore London town. Wild food and festive aromatherapy- what more could you ask for?
So many pubs, so little time.
Rokit is the best vintage store in London. My daughter loved rummaging through the old t-shirts, shoes, coats and other goodies. I spent most of the time alternating between feeling like I’d found old friends and feeling depressed because vintage now means all things from the 80s. By default, I think that makes me vintage too. Sigh.
There’s always something to celebrate in London! Girl power! Also, cheese!
Lunch was in a pub. Isn’t this cute? Plus the pints were tasty. And the food was good. Yes, really. We were the first ones there because we were on Paris time (or Boston time?) and we were hungry!
Every time we visit a different city, or country, or really anywhere that’s not home there seems to be some sort of car show or exhibit happening. Even though my husband is a huge, huge fan of all things automotive he swears this is just a coincidence. But I’m not convinced because it happens every. single.time. Case in point- the Ferrari: Under The Skin exhibit opened at the Design Museum just days before we arrived. I wanted to go there anyway, and I did think this particular exhibit sounded pretty good, so win, win.
This is how Ferrari’s look before they become actual cars.
Ferraris really are beautiful…
I love race car driver helmets. I don’t know why, but I do. I also love race car drivers. Have you seen Rush? No? You should, and then you’ll love race car drivers too.
The rest of the museum is worth a look too. I mean, the building alone is an inspiration.
Designer, maker or user- which one are you?
Ah- the design love triangle. Can’t have one without the others…
Design is everywhere and influences everything. Think about that.
Life in a nutshell.
How lucky are you when a really great place like the Union Tavern is right across the street from your hotel? Dinner spot!
Haha- no! We didn’t stay at the Ritz but on our second day we met our friend Paul right outside because it was close to the tube station.
We didn’t even mean to, but we got to see the changing of the guards at Buckingham Palace- or more accurately we got to see the backs of heads of tons of people watching the changing of the guards.
Eh, hello there Queen Elizabeth.
We spent some time on the South Bank of the Thames. Insider tip: get the Fast Pass for the London Eye and plan to explore a bit while you wait for your timeslot.
Blue sky and sunshine in London? Yes, it happens!
My daughter would not be happy if she saw this picture, but she’ll never know so…heh heh. Anyway, this was lunch at Wagamama. I have a hard and fast rule to never eat in a restaurant we can go to at home when we’re away, but everyone loves Wagamama, including me. Rules are meant to be broken anyway, right?
But then when we left Wagamama we saw this place – the British think of everything! Lunch in an igloo? We could have done that! But yet, I wonder how steamy it gets in there with 5 people breathing and eating and etc?
Watercolor view of Big Ben and Parliment. Big Ben was under scaffolding, but still pretty.
I am in love with books. Like completely in love. So, it was really fantastic to discover Books Under the Bridge. A tiny piece of heaven.
Browsing is so much fun…
I also love old maps, and they had loads.
Say hello to Liam Flanagan. He’s living my son’s dream.
We were going to ride some city bikes, but we ran out of time. Good to know they’re here though.
The Brand Academy is definitely worth a stop- chock full of products made by emerging artists and designers. Good stuff!
All the colors.
If I weren’t a procrastinator by nature (and if I’d brought a bigger suitcase) I would have picked up some Christmas gifts…
Holiday market finds- love me some colorful lights.
Here’s Paul! We hadn’t seen him in eons- so it was great to spend the day with him, and get yelled at together by ornery baristas at Nero Coffee.
I actually hate Ferris Wheels and looking up at this extra, extra tall one felt really intimidating BUT…
You can’t skip the London Eye, so up we went!
And it’s so worth it! You get your own personal pod (well shared with like 10 other people) and you feel like you’re headed to outer space. The views are unparalleled.
Mid-flight selfie fail.
The group below us was having a champagne party. Dang it, we were one pod too early…
Here I am channeling Mary Tyler Moore.
And this is that unparalleled view I was telling you about.
That was fun!
Just walking around is a feast for the eyes, especially when the sky cooperates and gives you this.
You know there aren’t actually phones in these things anymore.
Here’s my pretty little London pic.
Buckingham Palace at sunset…
Shop goals! When I was in the business of flower making I dreamed of having a shop like this…
The kids wanted to know how many pubs we were going to visit. Answer: as many as we could fit in (which was 6 in two days). When in London…
Being in London near Christmas is extra great because this town takes it’s holidaying to the next level.
It was only November 19 but there were lights and festive decorations everywhere.
It made me feel a little anxious and inadequate actually because I know my own decorating won’t be done til approximately Dec 24th.
Dinner Sunday night was at The Wilmington. We opted for the traditional Roast. I can’t tell you how amazing the food was, you will just have to go and taste for yourself. Yorkshire Pudding and all the rest.
After London, we headed back to France. I think I’ll share some pics of that in a separate post because this one is getting kind of long, dontcha think? Stay tuned…
Last weekend some friends and I headed down to Long Island wine country for a little mini-break. None of us had ever been there, but we’d heard good things. And even though we normally plan a bit better, this is such a busy time for all of us that we didn’t put too much thought into the trip. We booked a house but pretty much left the rest of the weekend open to hap and circumstance. I don’t know if it was because of or despite that, but we had an amazing weekend. It is an absolutely beautiful spot to spend time in, and the quality of the wine is very, very good. And, if you’re not that into wine (um, what??) there are other things to do too–eating, shopping, antiquing, boating, swimming, bike riding, or just lounging– you name it, you can do it on the north fork of Long Island!
I’m going to tell you our story through pictures because I have like 400 of them on my phone. I may have been a bit snap-happy. But really, you’ll see why now:
It’s a quick ferry ride from New London and if you go in April you won’t have touble finding a seat.
Kontokosta Winery was on the way from the ferry to our rental so we didn’t see any reason not to stop.
I love a beautiful barn, and if there’s wine to drink inside- well then, all the better!
Girls are headed in…
The tasting room had us like…
Time to shop!
We met a friend who insisted we pose like this. It works.
Cabernet Franc is a good way to start off a wine tour- and this one was fantastic. Nice view too…
Fog rolling off the water gave us this view of the barn. Didn’t want to leave, but:
Next stop: our rental. LOVE, LOVE, LOVE this cottage.
This place had everything we needed and more- plus was kinda like stepping into a West Elm catalog.
Entry- kick those shoes off and stay awhile!
I like it when there’s a nice bathroom. Bathrooms are important.
Waking up here was a pleasure (well except for the massive hangover).
First order of business, relaxing on the patio!
Friday night we hit the town in our blazers. Didn’t mean to dress alike, but it is what it is: blazer brigade
Cocktails at American Beech. We felt like we were in Miami and Tina got attacked by a big palm frond.
Might have overdone in Friday night, but couldn’t miss a beat. First stop Saturday was Croteaux, the rosé winery. This place was seriously a little slice of heaven.
The wine here was as lovely to drink as it was to look at.
Cheers to sunny days and the best of friends.
So good. I love rosé when the sun is shining and there’s a Citroen Hvan in the background.
We wanted to sit here but the stools were too tall.
More ambiance at Croteaux. Would have been nice to stay all day BUT…
More wine to try! This is Lenz.
The tasting barn at Lenz.
Lenz has a great old vine 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon. Really tasty! Also, their merlot is very good. I don’t usually drink merlot, but this one was pretty inspired.
Lieb was next. I loved this place. It had a great low-key vibe: great staff, live music and more really good wine. Merlot again. Maybe I am a merlot drinker after all.
Listening and tasting at Lieb
It was too nice a day to stay inside so moved to the patio to soak up the sun and enjoy the view. Nice way to wind down the tour.
This is Chris, our driver from North Fork Designated Driver. Best decision we made. He was super nice and we didn’t have to worry about being safe on the roads.
We were probably really annoying.
Saturday night we had dinner at American Beech (which was top notch) and checked out the local bar scene at Brix&Rye and Lucharitos. No pics of that (probably a good thing). Happy to report we didn’t spend any time inside here.
This is American Beech in the daylight. Great spot!
I loved how the town was cute, with lots to do but not overdone or pretentious.
Thanks for the memories Greenport! We’ll be back for sure.